By David Thompson
Exploring the Enchanting South of Kyushu
September is often a delightful time to explore the scenic beauty and vibrant culture of Kyushu, Japan’s southernmost main island. The journey begins in Kagoshima, a city known for its stunning views of Sakurajima, an active volcano that offers a unique blend of nature and culture. Travelers often find themselves enchanted by the warm hospitality and diverse experiences that await them. The itinerary laid out here offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of adventures that can be enjoyed over a week-long stay.
Night 1: Arrival in Kagoshima
Upon landing at Kagoshima Airport at 4:45 PM, the excitement of the journey begins. A quick bus ride downtown leads to a friend’s house, highlighting a crucial tip for travelers: cash is king in local transportation. Unlike many places in Japan, the use of Pasmo or Suica cards is limited here, so securing a Cute Pass or having cash on hand is essential.
As the evening unfolds, the local community spirit is palpable during a Mochi Making Event at the Kagoshima Kenmin Koryu Centre, a festive gathering celebrating the upcoming Tsukimi holiday. The event is particularly welcoming to foreigners, allowing for a delightful cultural immersion. Although reservations are recommended, the friendly atmosphere often accommodates last-minute additions.
After the mochi-making festivities, a visit to Vagabond Ramen for dinner leads to an unforgettable culinary experience. The tsukemen with chashu is a must-try, with flavors that compel travelers to return for more. Following a satisfying meal, the night continues at Luck Apartment, a café that transforms into a lively party venue. Here, new friendships blossom amidst laughter and music, showcasing the city’s vibrant nightlife.
Day 1: Discovering Sakurajima
The following morning begins with a revitalizing latte at Luck Apartment before heading to the ferry terminal for a scenic ride to Sakurajima. A leisurely stroll through Minato Odori Park not only offers a pleasant route but also allows travelers to appreciate the local flora and the gentle buzz of city life. Boarding the ferry around 9:40 AM, travelers are treated to stunning views of the volcano as they approach.
Once on Sakurajima, a visit to the information booth reveals the convenience of the Cute Pass, which is a game-changer for navigating city transport. The red line tour bus, known for its comprehensive route, provides access to key points of interest, ensuring a well-rounded experience. Travelers are encouraged to arrive early to secure the best seats, as the views from the bus are simply breathtaking.
After the bus tour, a delightful treat awaits at the café in the ferry terminal—ash ice cream accompanied by a sweet potato chip, providing a refreshing respite from the sun. This delicious snack is a perfect precursor to the next adventure.
Next on the agenda is a hand-looming experience at Amaminosato, where creativity intertwines with tradition. Although the reservation is strictly timed, the process of weaving and learning about the Oshima Tsumugi ash-dying technique is both engaging and fulfilling. The space allows for exploration, making it a rewarding stop for those interested in local crafts.
Evening Adventures in Kagoshima
Returning to Kagoshima, the day culminates with a delicious dinner of Kurobuta tonkatsu at Kurokatsutei Kurobe Tenmonkan. The rich flavors of the dish leave an impression, as does the vibrant atmosphere of the Tenmonkan area. A post-dinner stroll leads to Mujaki Main Shop, renowned for its Shirokuma Shaved Ice, a local favorite that tantalizes the taste buds and offers a sweet way to cool down after a day of exploration.
Although the night might have ended there, a visit to the local izakaya, 017 Yokaban, provides an authentic taste of Japanese nightlife. This highly recommended spot promises a lively atmosphere filled with laughter, delicious small plates, and the chance to mingle with locals, further enhancing the cultural experience.
Day 2: A Journey to Kirishima
The adventure continues with a short trip to Kirishima, a region steeped in myth and natural beauty. The morning starts with a hearty breakfast and a scenic drive, with travelers often captivated by the lush landscapes that characterize the area. Kirishima is known for its hot springs and hiking trails, making it a perfect destination for those seeking relaxation and outdoor activities.
Upon arrival, exploring the Kirishima Shrine is a must. This shrine, surrounded by ancient trees, provides a serene atmosphere, inviting travelers to reflect and absorb the tranquility of their surroundings. The area is rich in history and local legends, with many travelers taking the time to learn about the sacred significance of the site.
For the adventurous, hiking the trails in Kirishima National Park reveals stunning vistas and unique geological formations. The trails vary in difficulty, catering to both casual walkers and seasoned hikers. Breathtaking views of Mount Kirishima and the surrounding landscapes offer countless opportunities for memorable photographs.
Indulging in Local Cuisine
No trip is complete without indulging in the local cuisine. In Kirishima, travelers can savor regional specialties such as grilled chicken skewers and fresh sashimi. Many restaurants pride themselves on using locally sourced ingredients, ensuring a delicious dining experience that reflects the essence of Kyushu’s culinary culture.
After a day filled with exploration and culinary delights, soaking in one of Kirishima’s famous onsens offers the perfect way to unwind. The warm, mineral-rich waters are not only relaxing but are also believed to have health benefits, providing rejuvenation for body and soul.
Day 3: A Cultural Experience in Miyazaki
The next leg of the journey takes travelers to Miyazaki, a coastal city known for its beautiful beaches and rich cultural heritage. Starting the day with a visit to the Aoshima Island, famous for its picturesque shrine and unique rock formations, is highly recommended. The island is accessible by a short walk from the mainland, and the scenery is nothing short of breathtaking, especially during sunrise or sunset.
In Miyazaki, the local markets beckon, offering a variety of fresh produce, seafood, and handmade crafts. Travelers often find themselves immersed in the vibrant atmosphere, sampling local delicacies such as chicken nanban, a dish that combines fried chicken with a tangy sauce, often served with tartar sauce. The bustling markets provide a perfect opportunity to interact with locals and discover more about the region’s culture.
Day 4: Exploring Takachiho Gorge
After a fulfilling stay in Miyazaki, the journey leads to Takachiho Gorge, a stunning natural wonder characterized by steep cliffs and crystal-clear waters. The gorge is best explored by renting a paddleboat, allowing travelers to enjoy the serene surroundings and get up close to the famous Manai Falls. The experience of gliding along the river, surrounded by lush greenery, is often described as magical.
Following the boat ride, a visit to the Takachiho Shrine reveals more about the area’s mythology and history. The shrine is a peaceful spot where visitors can learn about the legends surrounding the sun goddess Amaterasu and her brother Susanoo, which are integral to Japanese culture. The tranquil environment encourages reflection and appreciation of the natural beauty that surrounds the area.
Day 5: Back to Kagoshima
As the journey winds down, returning to Kagoshima for a final day allows travelers to revisit favorite spots or discover new ones. A leisurely day can include shopping for local souvenirs, such as handmade crafts or regional snacks to take home. The local markets and shops often showcase the creativity of the artisans, making it a perfect opportunity to find unique gifts.
For those interested in history, the Kagoshima City Museum of Art offers a look into the region’s artistic heritage, featuring works from both Japanese and international artists. The museum’s exhibitions often provide insight into the cultural influences that have shaped Kagoshima over the years.
Day 6: Departure
As the trip comes to an end, travelers reflect on their experiences in Kagoshima and the surrounding regions. The memories of stunning landscapes, delicious food, and warm interactions with locals create a tapestry of experiences that are sure to linger long after leaving. Whether it’s the vibrant nightlife, serene natural beauty, or rich cultural encounters, the south of Kyushu offers a journey that resonates with every traveler.
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As the journey concludes, the beauty of Kyushu remains etched in memory, inviting travelers to return and explore even more of its hidden treasures.
Day 2 Continued: A Cultural Deep Dive
The day in Kagoshima continued with a visit to the Reimeikan, a museum dedicated to the history and culture of Kagoshima Prefecture. Arriving at 9 AM, I was greeted by the tranquil atmosphere that filled the museum grounds. The early morning light cast a gentle glow over the expansive landscape, enhancing the serene experience. During my time there, I was able to admire various exhibits that showcased the region’s rich history, from the Satsuma domain to the Meiji Restoration. The museum was surprisingly quiet, allowing for a personal and introspective exploration of the artifacts on display.
After soaking in the history, I ventured back to the Tenmonkan area, which buzzed with life as shopkeepers opened their stores for the day. I stopped at Satsuma Jokiya Kakashi Yokocho, a charming little donut shop that had been recommended to me. Taking a bite of their specialty donut, I found it to be a delightful blend of flavors, subtly sweet yet satisfying. The ambiance of the shop, adorned with a lovely water feature, provided a picturesque spot to enjoy my snack while watching the world go by.
In search of local artisanal products, I wandered into CenTerrace Tenmonkan. Although it resembled a standard mall, I was pleased to discover several shops that featured handmade goods by local artists. Among the treasures I found were small soy sauce plates that combined traditional Japanese aesthetics with playful dinosaur designs. It was a quirky twist on classic craftsmanship, and I couldn’t resist picking up a few as unique souvenirs.
Art and Craft at Sengan-en Garden
My next stop was Sengan-en Garden, a historical site promising stunning views of Sakurajima. The bus ride through the lush landscape heightened my anticipation, and upon arrival, I was not disappointed. The garden’s meticulously maintained grounds showcased a variety of flora, with each section offering a different perspective of the iconic volcano. I strolled leisurely, taking in the dynamic interplay of nature and architecture, and stopped to sample some traditional mochi made fresh at one of the garden’s tea houses. The flavor was authentic, and it felt like a direct connection to the region’s culinary roots.
One of the highlights of visiting Sengan-en was the pottery painting workshop. For 4000 yen, I engaged in a creative endeavor that allowed me to personalize a plate with my own designs. The process was unhurried, which made it all the more enjoyable. I spent about two hours painting, with the staff providing guidance and encouragement. The kiln-firing process would take a week, and my finished piece would be sent to my address in Japan, a thoughtful service that ensured I could take home a piece of my artistic expression. Alongside plates, cups and small charms were available for immediate take-home, but I found the painting experience to be more rewarding.
A Quick Detour to Ishibashi Memorial Park
After my creative session, I took a brief bus ride to Ishibashi Memorial Park. The park was modest, offering picturesque views of the iconic Ishibashi Bridge, which is known for its striking architectural design. I spent about 15 minutes absorbing the peaceful surroundings before realizing that my time was limited. The bridge’s elegant lines and the surrounding water made for a perfect photo opportunity, capturing a moment of tranquility amidst my busy exploration.
In a twist of fate, I discovered that I had left my mobile battery at CenTerrace. Fortunately, the staff were incredibly helpful, and I retraced my steps to retrieve it. While I was back in the area, I decided to indulge in a matcha latte and chocolate treat at a nearby café. The rich flavors of the matcha paired perfectly with the sweet chocolate, creating a delightful pick-me-up as I prepared for the next segment of my adventure.
Evening Escapades in Kagoshima
As dusk approached, I set off to explore more of what Kagoshima had to offer. I had heard about a local izakaya that was famous for its warm atmosphere and delicious offerings, and I was eager to experience it firsthand. Arriving around 7:30 PM, I quickly realized that the space was already full, indicative of its popularity. The owner, a charming woman, stepped out to greet us and suggested we return around 9 PM when the crowd might have thinned. Admittedly, I didn’t have the energy to wait, but I appreciated her warmth and hospitality.
Instead, I opted for a cozy night in, reflecting on the day’s experiences and enjoying the local flavors I had savored. The stories and interactions I had engaged in during the day lingered in my mind, creating a vibrant tapestry of memories that enhanced the overall journey.
Day 3: Last Full Day in Kagoshima
The third day in Kagoshima was dedicated to delving deeper into the cultural landscape of the city. I began my morning with a visit to Reimeikan once again, this time taking the opportunity to explore the museum at a leisurely pace. The quiet atmosphere allowed me to absorb the exhibits fully, and my Cute Pass once again proved invaluable for securing a discount on entry. This time, I took my time wandering the museum grounds, appreciating the intricate details of Kagoshima’s past.
After my history immersion, I decided to treat myself to another round of local delicacies. A quick stop at the donut shop confirmed my initial impression; while delightful, it wasn’t a must-visit unless you’re in the area. The shop’s ambiance, however, made it a pleasant place to enjoy a snack while observing locals go about their day.
Exploring Local Markets and Artisanal Shops
With an appetite for exploration, I ventured towards the CenTerrace Tenmonkan yet again, this time more focused on discovering local arts and crafts. The mall had a comfortable vibe, and I found several unique shops run by local artisans. One particularly intriguing store featured handcrafted jewelry made from local materials, each piece telling a story of the region’s culture and heritage. I spent time chatting with the owner, learning about the inspirations behind her designs, and ultimately left with a one-of-a-kind necklace that I knew would carry the essence of Kagoshima with me.
Feeling inspired by the local creativity, I made my way to the nearby Sengan-en Garden once more. This time, I explored areas I hadn’t seen previously, including the tea house where visitors can experience the traditional tea ceremony. The ceremony was a beautiful expression of Japanese culture, emphasizing mindfulness and appreciation for the moment. I participated in the ceremony, savoring the delicate flavors of matcha while absorbing the serene atmosphere of the garden.
Evening Reflections and Culinary Delights
As the sun began to set, I prepared for an evening of culinary exploration. I had heard whispers of a hidden gem of a restaurant known for its Kurobuta (black pork) dishes. Intrigued, I made my way to the restaurant, excited to indulge in a meal that was emblematic of the region’s culinary prowess. The ambiance was warm and inviting, filled with the aroma of grilled meats and simmering sauces. My Kurobuta tonkatsu arrived, perfectly breaded and fried to golden perfection. Each bite was a revelation, showcasing the rich flavors of the pork that melted in my mouth.
Post-dinner, I decided to take a stroll through the nearby streets. The lively atmosphere of the Tenmonkan area was infectious, with locals and travelers mingling in the cool evening air. I stopped at a small izakaya, drawn in by the laughter and camaraderie spilling out onto the street. The evening turned into a delightful mix of shared dishes, local sake, and engaging conversation with the friendly locals who welcomed me into their world. It was a perfect representation of the warm hospitality that defines Kagoshima.
Day 4: Journey Beyond Kagoshima
As my time in Kagoshima came to a close, I set my sights on the next destination: Miyazaki. Known for its stunning coastline and rich cultural heritage, I was excited to explore what this coastal city had to offer. The early morning departure was invigorating, and the scenic drive to Miyazaki was filled with picturesque landscapes and glimpses of life in the countryside.
Upon arrival, I made my way to Aoshima Island, which is famous for its unique rock formations and scenic shrine. The island is a short walk from the mainland, and the path leading to it is lined with beautiful coastal views, making the journey as pleasurable as the destination. Once on the island, I was greeted by the sight of the Aoshima Shrine, surrounded by lush greenery and adorned with traditional architecture that exuded tranquility. I took my time exploring the shrine, appreciating the intricate carvings and the serene atmosphere that enveloped the area.
Local Markets and Culinary Adventures in Miyazaki
After exploring Aoshima, I ventured into the heart of Miyazaki’s local markets. The bustling environment was vibrant, filled with vendors selling fresh produce, seafood, and handmade crafts. The air was fragrant with the enticing aroma of local dishes being prepared, and I couldn’t resist sampling the chicken nanban, a Miyazaki specialty. The fusion of fried chicken with a tangy sauce and tartar dressing was a delightful surprise, offering a perfect balance of flavors that left a lasting impression.
As I continued to explore the markets, I interacted with local artisans, each sharing their stories and passion for their crafts. I stumbled upon a stall selling handmade pottery, where the artist demonstrated the delicate process of creating beautiful pieces from clay. It was inspiring to watch the craftsmanship firsthand, and I left with a small bowl that would serve as a reminder of my time in Miyazaki.
Day 5: Takachiho Gorge and Its Mystique
Leaving Miyazaki behind, I set off towards Takachiho Gorge, a destination renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty. The journey there was filled with anticipation, and upon arrival, I was immediately captivated by the stunning cliffs and crystal-clear waters that define the gorge. It’s truly a place where nature’s artistry comes to life.
To fully appreciate the gorge, I opted to rent a paddleboat, allowing me to glide along the serene waters while soaking in the dramatic scenery surrounding me. As I paddled closer to the famous Manai Falls, I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me. The sound of cascading water and the lush greenery created a peaceful oasis that felt almost otherworldly.
After the paddleboat adventure, I visited the Takachiho Shrine, a site steeped in mythology and spirituality. The shrine is known for its connection to the sun goddess Amaterasu, and the legends surrounding the area added a layer of mystique to my visit. Walking through the hallowed grounds, I felt a sense of reverence and appreciation for the rich cultural heritage that permeated the air.
Final Days and Reflections
As my journey through Kyushu began to wind down, I returned to Kagoshima for a final day of exploration. It was an opportunity to revisit favorite spots and perhaps discover new gems I might have overlooked. The vibrant energy of the city continued to inspire me, and I made it a point to seek out local artisans and craftspeople to learn more about their work.
Shopping for souvenirs became an adventure in itself, as I sought out unique handmade items that would encapsulate my memories of the region. From textiles to ceramics, each piece carried the spirit of Kyushu, offering a tangible connection to my experiences. I found myself lingering in shops, chatting with artisans, and uncovering the stories behind their creations.
In the days leading up to my departure, I took the time to reflect on the myriad of experiences I had gathered during my travels. From the warm hospitality of the locals to the stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage, Kyushu had left an indelible mark on my heart. The journey was more than just a series of destinations; it was a tapestry woven from threads of connection, discovery, and personal growth.
As I prepared for my departure, I felt a sense of gratitude for the adventures I had embarked upon and the memories I had created. The beauty of Kyushu was not just in its landscapes but in the interactions, stories, and laughter shared along the way. I looked forward to carrying these experiences with me as I continued my travels, inspired by the enchanting south of Kyushu and eager to explore even more of the world.
In conclusion, the enchanting south of Kyushu offers a rich tapestry of experiences that cater to all types of travelers. From the breathtaking landscapes of Sakurajima and Kirishima to the cultural delights found in Kagoshima and Miyazaki, each destination invites exploration and appreciation. The warm hospitality of the locals, combined with the region’s culinary treasures and artistic heritage, creates unforgettable memories that linger long after the journey ends.
As you plan your own adventure in Kyushu, consider embracing the local customs, indulging in the delicious cuisine, and immersing yourself in the vibrant culture. There’s a world of hidden gems waiting to be discovered, and the south of Kyushu promises to captivate your heart. So pack your bags, set your itinerary, and get ready for a journey filled with wonder and connection. Happy travels!