By David Thompson 
Exploring Japan Beyond Tokyo: A Journey Through the Inland Sea
Japan offers countless destinations beyond the bustling streets of Tokyo and the cultural richness of Kansai. For travelers seeking a unique experience, the Inland Sea presents a treasure trove of art, nature, and culinary delights. This blog post outlines an itinerary that takes visitors through the picturesque islands of Naoshima and Teshima, as well as the vibrant city of Takamatsu, showcasing the best of what these locations have to offer.
Day 1: Arrival in Osaka
Upon arrival at Osaka Itami airport, travelers can quickly make their way to their accommodation near Shin Osaka station. This strategic choice allows for easy access to the Shinkansen for an early departure to Okayama the following day. While the nightlife in Osaka is enticing, a good night’s rest is essential for the adventures ahead.
Day 2: Discovering Naoshima
The adventure begins with a scenic journey to Naoshima. After shipping luggage to a hotel in Takamatsu, travelers can catch an early train to Okayama, transfer to a bus to Uno port, and finally board a ferry to Miyanoura port. Arriving around 11 AM, visitors will find bike rental shops conveniently located across from the ferry terminal. Renting an e-bike is highly recommended, especially for those planning to visit the renowned Chichu Art Museum.
The first stop is the Honmura area, home to the Art House Projects. While the Ando Museum gives insight into the work of architect Tadao Ando, many recommend prioritizing the Art House Projects for a truly immersive experience. Riding from east to west towards Chichu can be challenging, even with an e-bike, so adjusting the seat height is key to enjoying the ride without discomfort.
Chichu Art Museum is a must-visit, celebrated for its stunning architecture and captivating artworks. The café within the museum offers a picturesque view, making it a perfect spot to relax. Dining options on the island are limited, but a visit to Chikurin provides an intimate dining experience where guests can interact with both locals and fellow travelers. This small establishment serves a limited number of guests, ensuring a cozy atmosphere and a memorable meal.
Day 3: A Day in Teshima
The following day is dedicated to Teshima, accessible via a short ferry ride from Naoshima. Upon arrival, visitors can explore the island on their rented e-bikes. Teshima boasts stunning landscapes, with old villages and farms gracing the hillsides. The Teshima Art Museum is a highlight, encouraging guests to immerse themselves in the experience rather than researching it beforehand.
After visiting the museum, taking a leisurely ride around the island is recommended. The south side of Teshima, though lacking in major tourist attractions, offers breathtaking views that are worth the exploration. After a fulfilling day, travelers can return to Naoshima for a satisfying dinner of curry rice at a local eatery.
Day 4: Naoshima to Takamatsu
Starting the day with a delightful cup of cappuccino sets the right tone for the morning. After renting an e-bike once again, visitors can explore the Honmura area further, including a visit to Minamidera, an intriguing site not to be spoiled beforehand. Afterward, a ferry ride to Takamatsu opens up opportunities to discover this lively city.
Upon arrival in Takamatsu, indulging in the city’s famous udon is a necessity. For a historical experience, the Shikoku Mura provides an excellent opportunity to view preserved buildings and artifacts. To further explore the area, travelers can catch a bus to Yashima temple, where panoramic views await.
After a day of exploration, a return to the hotel in Kawaramachi, conveniently located near Ritsurin-Koen and the harbor, offers a perfect resting place for the night. The proximity to public transport makes it an ideal base for further adventures.
Day 5: Splendor of Ritsurin-Koen and Ogijima
Early risers will appreciate a visit to Ritsurin-Koen, regarded as one of Japan’s finest gardens. Spanning vast acres, the garden’s lakes, trees, bridges, and rocks are meticulously arranged, providing a serene environment for visitors. A leisurely stroll through the garden takes about two hours, allowing ample time to appreciate the seasonal beauty.
Following the garden visit, a local favorite of beef udon with tempura provides a delicious and budget-friendly meal. After lunch, a ferry ride to Ogijima leads to a quaint village perched on a hillside overlooking the harbor. The views from the shrine at the village’s summit are breathtaking, providing a perfect backdrop for memorable photographs.
Despite some abandoned houses and an aging population, Ogijima exudes charm and character, making it a unique destination off the beaten path. After a day filled with culture and nature, a late afternoon train to Okayama wraps up the day’s itinerary, setting the stage for further exploration in the region.
Exploring Beyond: Additional Recommendations
For those planning to extend their journey, the Inland Sea is home to numerous other islands worth exploring. Shodo Island and Awaji Island offer a mix of natural beauty and local culture, while Hiroshima is a short trip away, inviting travelers to delve deeper into Japan’s rich history.
Travelers should also consider the seasonal festivals and events taking place throughout the year. Participating in local festivals provides a unique glimpse into Japanese culture and community spirit. Engaging with locals, whether through food, art, or conversation, enhances the travel experience and creates lasting memories.
Lastly, while navigating this itinerary, travelers are encouraged to use local transport options such as trains and ferries. This not only reduces travel time but also offers an opportunity to enjoy the scenic routes that Japan is famous for. Renting an e-bike is a great way to explore islands at a leisurely pace, allowing for spontaneous stops and discoveries along the way.
In conclusion, Japan offers a diverse array of experiences beyond its urban centers. By venturing into the Inland Sea, travelers can embrace a blend of art, nature, and local culture that showcases the true essence of Japan.
delicious treat, we continued our ride, feeling invigorated and eager to explore more of the Shimanami Kaido. This route is not just a cycling path; it’s a journey through the heart of Japan’s Setouchi region, where each bridge connects islands with breathtaking vistas that unfold at every turn. As we pedaled, the shimmering waters of the Inland Sea sparkled beneath the sun, creating a picturesque backdrop that seemed to elevate the experience to another level.
Day 10 – Matsuyama: A Dive into History and Onsen Culture
After two exhilarating days of cycling, we arrived in Matsuyama. This city is renowned for its historical significance and its famed Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest hot springs. To kick off our visit, we headed straight to the Dogo Onsen Honkan, which is a stunning wooden structure that radiates old-world charm. The onsen complex is not just a place to soak; it’s an experience steeped in history, where you can feel the essence of the past as you traverse its corridors.
Taking a dip in the onsen was both relaxing and rejuvenating. The mineral-rich waters are known for their healing properties, making it the perfect antidote after days of cycling. It is customary to enjoy the onsen in a yukata, which adds to the cultural immersion. After our soak, we enjoyed matcha (green tea) and traditional sweets at a nearby tea shop, where the sweet aroma of freshly brewed tea filled the air, heightening the sensory experience.
In the afternoon, we made our way to Matsuyama Castle, perched atop a hill and offering panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape. The castle’s well-preserved architecture and engaging exhibits provide insight into the feudal history of Japan. A stroll through the castle grounds, with cherry blossom trees swaying gently in the breeze, felt like stepping back in time. We spent hours wandering the grounds, capturing photographs that would serve as cherished memories of our journey.
Day 11 – Exploring the Art and Culture of Naoshima and Teshima Again
With our spirits high and our bodies recharged, we decided to revisit Naoshima and Teshima for a second round of exploration. This time, our focus shifted towards more of the island’s hidden gems. After taking the ferry back to Naoshima, we decided to explore the lesser-known art installations that we had missed on our first visit.
One of the standout highlights was the “Pumpkin” by Yayoi Kusama, which is located at the Miyanoura port. This iconic sculpture, with its bright yellow color and polka dot patterns, has become a symbol of Naoshima and is a must-see for any visitor. The playful presence of the pumpkin against the backdrop of the sea creates a stunning photo opportunity. We took our time, taking in the beauty of the surroundings and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of the island.
Next, we ventured towards the Teshima Art Museum again, this time with a deeper understanding of the concept behind its design and the art it houses. The museum is not just a physical space; it’s a philosophical exploration of art and nature. The architectural design allows natural elements to flow into the gallery, creating a harmonious experience that emphasizes the connection between art and the environment. The museum’s simplicity in design encourages contemplation, making it a perfect setting for reflecting on our journey so far.
Day 12 – Culinary Delights of the Setouchi Region
On our final day in the Inland Sea area, we made it a mission to explore the culinary offerings of the Setouchi region. Known for its fresh seafood and local delicacies, we embarked on a food tour that would take us through local markets and eateries. Our first stop was at a lively market in Takamatsu, where vendors displayed a vibrant array of seasonal produce, seafood, and local snacks.
Sampling fresh sashimi and grilled fish from one of the stalls was a highlight of the day. The flavors were incredibly fresh, a testament to the region’s rich marine resources. We also discovered “shippoku” cuisine, which is a fusion of Japanese and Chinese culinary traditions, typically featuring a variety of small dishes served together. This communal dining experience not only filled our stomachs but also enriched our understanding of the local culture.
As the sun began to set, we sought out one of the region’s renowned udon shops for dinner. The udon here is distinctively chewy and flavorful, often served in a steaming bowl of dashi broth. We paired our meal with local tempura, and the combination was nothing short of perfection. Each bite felt like a warm embrace, highlighting the essence of comfort food. The ambiance of the restaurant, filled with the sounds of laughter and clinking bowls, made for a memorable dining experience.
Day 13 – Journey Back to Osaka
As our journey came to an end, we took the train back to Osaka, reminiscing about the stunning landscapes, rich cultural experiences, and the delicious food we savored along the way. The Inland Sea had offered us not just a travel itinerary, but a deeper connection to Japan’s art, history, and culinary heritage. With each stop, we found ourselves enchanted by the warm hospitality of the locals and the serene beauty of the islands.
In Osaka, we took some time to explore the bustling streets of Dotonbori, famous for its neon lights and street food. The vibrant atmosphere was a stark contrast to the tranquility we experienced in Naoshima and Teshima. We indulged in takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savory pancakes), enjoying the lively energy of the city as we savored each bite.
As we prepared for our departure from Japan, we reflected on the myriad experiences that the Inland Sea had gifted us. From the artistic treasures of Naoshima to the culinary delights of Takamatsu, this journey was a beautiful reminder of Japan’s rich tapestry of culture, nature, and art. It’s an invitation to travelers to venture beyond the well-trodden paths and discover the hidden gems that await in this enchanting archipelago.
Final Thoughts: The Beauty of Slow Travel
Throughout this journey, we learned the value of slow travel. Taking the time to explore each destination fully allowed us to connect with the local culture and appreciate the beauty around us. Whether it was through engaging conversations with local chefs, savoring seasonal delicacies, or simply soaking in the natural beauty of the islands, we discovered that the heart of travel lies in the experiences we create and the connections we make.
As we boarded our flight home, it was with heavy hearts yet full stomachs and minds, knowing that our memories of Japan would last a lifetime. The Inland Sea had opened our eyes to a Japan that is often overlooked, but one that is bursting with life, creativity, and warmth. We left with a newfound appreciation for this beautiful country and a longing to return, to explore more of its hidden treasures.
Day 10 – Matsuyama: A Dive into History and Onsen Culture
After two exhilarating days of cycling, we arrived in Matsuyama. This city is renowned for its historical significance and its famed Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest hot springs. To kick off our visit, we headed straight to the Dogo Onsen Honkan, which is a stunning wooden structure that radiates old-world charm. The onsen complex is not just a place to soak; it’s an experience steeped in history, where you can feel the essence of the past as you traverse its corridors.
Taking a dip in the onsen was both relaxing and rejuvenating. The mineral-rich waters are known for their healing properties, making it the perfect antidote after days of cycling. It is customary to enjoy the onsen in a yukata, which adds to the cultural immersion. After our soak, we enjoyed matcha (green tea) and traditional sweets at a nearby tea shop, where the sweet aroma of freshly brewed tea filled the air, heightening the sensory experience.
In the afternoon, we made our way to Matsuyama Castle, perched atop a hill and offering panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape. The castle’s well-preserved architecture and engaging exhibits provide insight into the feudal history of Japan. A stroll through the castle grounds, with cherry blossom trees swaying gently in the breeze, felt like stepping back in time. We spent hours wandering the grounds, capturing photographs that would serve as cherished memories of our journey.
Day 11 – Exploring the Art and Culture of Naoshima and Teshima Again
With our spirits high and our bodies recharged, we decided to revisit Naoshima and Teshima for a second round of exploration. This time, our focus shifted towards more of the island’s hidden gems. After taking the ferry back to Naoshima, we decided to explore the lesser-known art installations that we had missed on our first visit.
One of the standout highlights was the “Pumpkin” by Yayoi Kusama, which is located at the Miyanoura port. This iconic sculpture, with its bright yellow color and polka dot patterns, has become a symbol of Naoshima and is a must-see for any visitor. The playful presence of the pumpkin against the backdrop of the sea creates a stunning photo opportunity. We took our time, taking in the beauty of the surroundings and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of the island.
Next, we ventured towards the Teshima Art Museum again, this time with a deeper understanding of the concept behind its design and the art it houses. The museum is not just a physical space; it’s a philosophical exploration of art and nature. The architectural design allows natural elements to flow into the gallery, creating a harmonious experience that emphasizes the connection between art and the environment. The museum’s simplicity in design encourages contemplation, making it a perfect setting for reflecting on our journey so far.
Day 12 – Culinary Delights of the Setouchi Region
On our final day in the Inland Sea area, we made it a mission to explore the culinary offerings of the Setouchi region. Known for its fresh seafood and local delicacies, we embarked on a food tour that would take us through local markets and eateries. Our first stop was at a lively market in Takamatsu, where vendors displayed a vibrant array of seasonal produce, seafood, and local snacks.
Sampling fresh sashimi and grilled fish from one of the stalls was a highlight of the day. The flavors were incredibly fresh, a testament to the region’s rich marine resources. We also discovered “shippoku” cuisine, which is a fusion of Japanese and Chinese culinary traditions, typically featuring a variety of small dishes served together. This communal dining experience not only filled our stomachs but also enriched our understanding of the local culture.
As the sun began to set, we sought out one of the region’s renowned udon shops for dinner. The udon here is distinctively chewy and flavorful, often served in a steaming bowl of dashi broth. We paired our meal with local tempura, and the combination was nothing short of perfection. Each bite felt like a warm embrace, highlighting the essence of comfort food. The ambiance of the restaurant, filled with the sounds of laughter and clinking bowls, made for a memorable dining experience.
Day 13 – Journey Back to Osaka
As our journey came to an end, we took the train back to Osaka, reminiscing about the stunning landscapes, rich cultural experiences, and the delicious food we savored along the way. The Inland Sea had offered us not just a travel itinerary, but a deeper connection to Japan’s art, history, and culinary heritage. With each stop, we found ourselves enchanted by the warm hospitality of the locals and the serene beauty of the islands.
In Osaka, we took some time to explore the bustling streets of Dotonbori, famous for its neon lights and street food. The vibrant atmosphere was a stark contrast to the tranquility we experienced in Naoshima and Teshima. We indulged in takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savory pancakes), enjoying the lively energy of the city as we savored each bite.
As we prepared for our departure from Japan, we reflected on the myriad experiences that the Inland Sea had gifted us. From the artistic treasures of Naoshima to the culinary delights of Takamatsu, this journey was a beautiful reminder of Japan’s rich tapestry of culture, nature, and art. It’s an invitation to travelers to venture beyond the well-trodden paths and discover the hidden gems that await in this enchanting archipelago.
Final Thoughts: The Beauty of Slow Travel
Throughout this journey, we learned the value of slow travel. Taking the time to explore each destination fully allowed us to connect with the local culture and appreciate the beauty around us. Whether it was through engaging conversations with local chefs, savoring seasonal delicacies, or simply soaking in the natural beauty of the islands, we discovered that the heart of travel lies in the experiences we create and the connections we make.
As we boarded our flight home, it was with heavy hearts yet full stomachs and minds, knowing that our memories of Japan would last a lifetime. The Inland Sea had opened our eyes to a Japan that is often overlooked, but one that is bursting with life, creativity, and warmth. We left with a newfound appreciation for this beautiful country and a longing to return, to explore more of its hidden treasures.
Additional Insights on Traveling in Japan
Traveling in Japan can be an incredibly rewarding experience, especially when you take advantage of the local customs and transportation systems. Here are some helpful tips to enhance your journey:
- Takkyubin Service: Absolutely use the takkyubin service to transport heavy luggage between cities. This service allows you to travel light and avoid the hassle of carrying bags on public transportation. I only carried one piece of luggage with me, making it easier to navigate busy train stations and crowded trams.
- Food Adventures: Food is almost always good in Japan. Restaurants with long lines are usually a safe bet, indicating their popularity among locals. However, don’t shy away from less crowded spots; you might stumble upon hidden gems. For example, the pastry shop on Oshima was a delightful surprise with its exquisite treats despite having few reviews online.
- Onsen Experience: The onsen ryokan in Matsuyama was the most expensive stay of the trip, but the experience was worth every yen. The combination of traditional Japanese hospitality and the therapeutic benefits of soaking in hot springs makes for an unforgettable experience.
- Cash is Key: Always bring sufficient cash, as many eateries do not accept IC cards and credit cards. This is especially true in smaller towns and rural areas.
- Transportation Passes: Consider getting a transportation pass like the Setouchi pass for seamless travel across the region. It can save you money and provides flexibility during your trip.
With these insights, you’ll be well-prepared to navigate Japan’s landscapes, cultures, and culinary delights. Each journey is unique, and embracing the local way of life will undoubtedly enhance your travel experience.
In conclusion, exploring Japan’s Inland Sea offers a unique and enriching travel experience that goes beyond the well-known urban destinations. From the serene beauty of Naoshima and Teshima to the culinary delights of Takamatsu, each location unfolds its own story, inviting travelers to engage with art, nature, and local culture.
Key travel tips include utilizing the convenient takkyubin service for hassle-free luggage transport, savoring the diverse culinary offerings—from bustling markets to cozy udon shops—and immersing yourself in traditional experiences like onsen visits. Engaging with locals and participating in seasonal festivals can also enhance your journey, providing a deeper connection to the community.
As you consider your next adventure, remember that Japan’s charm lies in its hidden gems and the warmth of its people. Embrace the spirit of slow travel, allowing yourself the time to explore, discover, and connect. This enchanting archipelago awaits, ready to share its treasures with those willing to venture beyond the beaten path. Happy travels!